Cookie Consent by FreePrivacyPolicy.com
Skip to main navigation menu Skip to main content Skip to site footer

Ongoing Research in Austrian American Studies

Vol. 4 No. 1 (2022): American Studies as Vulnerability Studies

One Nation Under Many Cowboy Hats: Western Hats and American Studies—A Cultural-Historical Conspectus

Submitted
August 18, 2020
Published
2022-12-30

Abstract

Commencing with the polemic that "everybody has always worn cowboy hats," this article (re)conceptualizes western hats as significant, signifying, wearable, and thus nomadic manifestations of Americanness. Their material complexity lends itself to thinking through the cultural fabric of Americanness, which, depending on the vantage point, oscillates between dominant and arguably homogeneous permutations of predominately white Americanness, and the checkered, multicultural "felt" that is the American experience at large, and that of the American West in particular.

References

  1. Aaron, Stephen. Peace and Friendship: An Alternative History of the American West. New York: University of Oxford Press, 2022.
  2. Agnew, Jeremy. The Creation of the Cowboy Hero. Jefferson: McFarland, 2015.
  3. Bandy, Mary L., and Kevin Stoehr. Ride, Boldly Ride. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012.
  4. Beard, Tyler. 100 Years of Western Wear. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 1993.
  5. Bendure, Zelma, and Gladys Pfeiffer. America's Fabrics. New York: MacMillan, 1946.
  6. Best Hat Store, The (@besthatstore). "Happy National Day of the Cowboy to all." Instagram. July 25, 2020. https://www.instagram.com/p/CDEqC8wgk1_/.
  7. Buck, Anne. "Clothes in Fact and Fiction, 1825–1865." Costume 17, no. 1 (1983): 89-104. https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1983.17.1.89.
  8. Campbell, Neil, and Alasdair Kean. American Cultural Studies. London: Routledge, 2012.
  9. Clayton, Lawrence, Jim Hoy, and Jerald Underwood. Vaqueros, Cowboys, and Buckaroos. Austin: University of Texas Press, 2001.
  10. Dary, David. Cowboy Culture. Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 1989.
  11. Datesman, Maryanne Kearny, JoAnn Crandall, and Edward N. Kearny. American Ways. White Plains: Pearson Education, 2005.
  12. Davidson, Telly. Culture War. Jefferson: McFarland, 2016.
  13. "An Educational Opportunity." Hat Box 1, no. 1 (1919): 1.
  14. Eicher, Joanne B. "Dress, the Senses, and Public, Private, and Secret Selves." Fashion Theory 25, no. 6 (2021): 777-797. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2020.1829849.
  15. Entwistle, Joanna. The Fashioned Body. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2000.
  16. Glasrud, Bruce A., and Michael N. Searles, ed. Black Cowboys in the American West. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 2016.
  17. Gordon, Beverly. Feltmaking. New York: Watson-Guptill, 1980.
  18. Hat Life: Year Book and Directory 1975. Edited by John Carlis. Jersey City: Peter H. Annunziata, 1975.
  19. Hellmann, John. The Kennedy Obsession. New York: Columbia University Press, 1997.
  20. Herlihy-Mera, Jeffrey. After American Studies. New York: Routledge, 2017.
  21. Hubbard, Elbert. Little Journeys. East Aurora: The Roycrofters, 1911.
  22. Hunter, James Davison. Culture Wars. New York: Basic Books, 1992.
  23. Iverson, Peter. Riders of the West. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1999.
  24. Iverson, Peter. When Indians Became Cowboys. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1994.
  25. Jillson, Cal. The American Dream. Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 2016.
  26. Kauffman, Sandra. The Cowboy Catalog. New York: Crown Publishers, 1980.
  27. Keith, Tamara, and Barbara Sprunt. "'That's Stephen': White House Adviser's Controversial Style Dates Back To His Youth." NPR. August 12, 2017. https://www.npr.org/2017/08/12/542811416/-that-s-stephen-white-house-adviser-s-controversial-style-dates-back-to-his-yout.
  28. Ketchum, William C. Western Memorabilia. Hammond: Maplewood, 1980.
  29. Kniffen, Fred. "The Western Cattle Complex: Notes on Differentiation and Diffusion." Western Folklore 12, no. 3 (1953): 179-85. https://doi.org/10.2307/1497521.
  30. Lerner, Max. The Unfinished Country. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1959.
  31. Lindmier, Tom, and Steve Mount. I See By Your Outfit. Glendo: High Plains Press, 1996.
  32. Mattson, Kevin. "The Rise of Postmodern Conservatism." In American Thought and Culture in the 21st Century, edited by Martin Halliwell and Catherine Morley, 81-96. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2008.
  33. McClellan, Ivan, and Ed Robertson. "A New Look at the Old West." July 17, 2020. In Mountain & Prairie, produced by Ed Robertson. Podcast, MP3 audio, 1:10:05. https://mountainandprairie.com/ivan-mcclellan/.
  34. McClellan, Ivan. "From Navajo Nation to Rookie of the Year." Andscape. Last modified July 3, 2019. https://andscape.com/features/from-navajo-nation-to-rookie-of-the-year/.
  35. McClellan, Mary E. Felt, Silk & Straw Handmade Hats. Doylestown: Bucks County Historical Society, 1977.
  36. McCracken, Grant D. Culture and Consumption. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1990.
  37. Opperman, Matthias. "History of American Studies." In Approaches to American Cultural Studies, edited by Anjte Dallmann, Eva Boesenberg, and Martin Klepper, 13-22. London: Routledge, 2016.
  38. Pierce, Jason E. Making the White Man's West. Boulder: University Press of Colorado, 2016.
  39. Price, Byron. Fine Art of the West. New York: Abbeville Press, 2004.
  40. Ratner-Rosenhagen, Jennifer. The Ideas That Made America. New York: Oxford University Press, 2019.
  41. Reynolds, William, and Ritch Rand. The Cowboy Hat Book. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2003.
  42. Rickey, Don. $10 Horse, $40 Saddle. Ft. Collins: The Old Army Press, 1976.
  43. Rollins, Philip A. The Cowboy. New York: Scribners, 1922.
  44. Semonche, John E. Keeping the Faith. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield, 1998.
  45. Slotkin, Richard. Regeneration Through Violence. Middletown: Wesleyan University Press, 1973.
  46. Smith, Malcom. Hats: A Very UNnatural History. East Lansing: Michigan State University Press, 2020.
  47. Snyder, Jeffrey B. Stetson Hats. Atglen: Schiffer, 1997.
  48. "Stetson: Made of America for 150 Years." YouTube. February 26, 2015. Video, 10:25. https://youtu.be/WWcuRwIWtJk.
  49. Tamony, Peter. "The Ten-Gallon or Texas Hat." Western Folklore 24, no. 2 (1965): 115-18. https://doi.org/10.2307/1498637.
  50. Tarrant, Naomi. The Development of Costume. London: Routledge, 1994.
  51. Taylor, Lou. The Study of Dress History. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002.
  52. Tompkins, Jane. West of Everything. London: Oxford University Press, 1993.
  53. Wendel, Matthew, and Stewart McLaurin. "45 Recipes from the President's Ranch." August 12, 2020. In The 1600 Sessions, produced by the White House Historical Association. Podcast, MP3 audio, 37:13. https://www.whitehousehistory.org/1600-sessions/recipes-from-the-presidents-ranch.
  54. Wilson, Laurel. "American Cowboy Dress: Function to Fashion." Dress 28, no. 1 (2001): 40-52. https://doi.org/10.1179/036121101805297680.
  55. Wilson, Laurel. "Cowboy Clothing." In Encyclopedia of Fashion and Clothing, Volume 1: Fads to Nylon, edited by Valerie Steele, 21-22. Farmington Hills: Thomson Gale, 2005.

Similar Articles

11-20 of 105

You may also start an advanced similarity search for this article.